Author Topic: xs1100 Trike (Read 20137 times)

Dennis · « **Reply #75 on:** March 21, 2022, 11:38:45 AM »

It has been almost two years since I have done any actual work on the trike project. I have spent lots of time looking and thinking about the best way of fabricating this or that, but not actually building a thing. I did a lot of experimentation with fiberglass in anticipation of making side panels, only to put that whole endeavor on hold because I suck at it.

I thought I would dive into the fender mounts.

I used my metal bender with a pivot die that is very close to the side wall curve. A flat plate for the part I wanted to stay straight, and a large roller to bend around the pivot die.

My fenders are not flat trailer fenders. They have a slight curve. That stumped me until I decided to just go for it. I don't have a lead shot bag, but I do have a gravel driveway.

I finished all of the brackets on an anvil. They all fit nicely with the inside curve of the fender.

Details ....

These brackets will be welded to either rod or 3/4" tubing, which will be welded to a bracket bolted to the frame. I have ordered a 3/4" by 3" radius die for my JD Squared tubing bender, but its back ordered so may be awhile. I would prefer to use tubing rather than rod. The fitment is going to be tight, and I can make much sharper bends in rod than tubing.

Peace & Grease, Dennis

Dennis · « **Reply #76 on:** March 28, 2022, 02:34:11 PM »

I'm going to make side panels to hide the battery and electrical stuff under the seat.

After talking to a high tech machinist and a computer geek, I've decided to try 3D printing. However, there is no way I'm going to learn CAD and design these on my computer. In the 3D printing world, things are commonly reverse engineered by scanning the item in 3D (special camera), and converting that information to CAD and then to the 3d printer.

It follows that I have to make a mock up of something that can be 3D scanned. I'm going to try it in Styrofoam. The advantage is I only have to make one side; the computer can make it mirror backward with just a couple mouse clicks. So I am told.... I am actually going to make the left and right side in styrofoam so if the 3d Printing doesn't work, I will still have two plugs to make molds and go down the fiberglass route.

First made a big block.

I made this to cut styrofoam. I use 2 amps through mig welding wire strung taught with a guitar tuner.

Thin particle board I get for free from a local cabinet shop that otherwise throws them out. The particle board allows for straight cuts.

I did not glue on the bottom pieces of foam until at my Man Cave. I had a choice of 2" or 1" pre-cut. I went with the 1"

Cutting the curve will be a challenge because the curve on the bottom is not going to be the same as the curve on the top (hypotenuse is always longer than base). No way I was going to do geometry. Top was easy; just clamp and draw a line.

The bottom was more work. I created a level and clamped in surface, then dotted perpendicularly from the top frame tube. The picture describes it better.

Once I have made the curved pieces, I will attach them to the top and bottom of the triangular block, and cut the styrofoam with the wire heat cutter.

Of course while all of this fabricating is going on, I have to be cognizant that I need to stuff a big battery and electrical components inside the space allotted. The battery will be the biggest and heaviest part. A couple of mock ups for ideas.

Peace & Grease, Dennis

Dennis · « **Reply #77 on:** April 11, 2022, 11:35:57 AM »

Roughed out the plug. This is rough sanded Styrofoam.

When I have finished getting it smooth, I will cut out parallel with the inside of the frame tube.

I've spared posting photos of all the screw ups. For each step in the process, I have practice pieces that I try first. Some failures include using interior primer paint (it cracks). Currently I have a piece with polyurethane and primer mixed 50-50, and a piece with Polyfilla. I'll assess which works best before trying to create a smooth finish.

Peace and Polyurethane, Dennis

Dennis · « **Reply #78 on:** February 16, 2023, 11:49:11 AM »

A while ago the brethren joined me for a shop night. One of the tasks was bending some 3/4 tubing 90 degrees for my fender mounts. Since then, I've pretty much finished the job.

I glued foam to the tires so the fenders would be an equal distance from them.

I used ratchet straps and squeezed the fenders down on the foam with the flat steel brackets squeezed in between. This held the brackets while I fabricated the rest of the pieces, and welded them in place.

Made two plates to be attached to axel U bolts.

Used a cardboard grid to make a template for cutting the curved tubes.

Made this jig to cut all of the tubes the same.

This jig was to help me get all of the angle cuts right. For these cuts I lined everything up with the line on the floor which helped ensure a straight cut.

All four tubes reading for welding

Pretty much finished. I need to trim off and round the flat part just below where the tubes are welded.
This was a big job, but I am happy with the results.

Peace & Grease, Dennis

Dennis · « **Reply #79 on:** February 22, 2023, 12:43:45 PM »

I went through my stash of motorcycle seats for inspiration of what would look good. The stock Harley seat that came with my pile of stolen sportster parts was closest, but not useable because the front curved up to connect to the gas tank. It just looked funny. I chopped the front off and decided to make something similar.

Made a base out of cardboard and curve out of styrofoam,

Everything covered with plastic film. The fiberglass resin melts styrofoam.

Alternate layers of mat and fabric.

Despite the plastic film, the fumes melted some of the styrofoam. This styrofoam was super light weight; left overs from a shipping crate.

Cut out with my bandsaw.

I want to have a mock up of the foam for when I take it to an upholsterer. I cut this the same way I cut my side panel plug; I glue particle board on the sides of a block and then cut with my hot wire cutter.

It looked too thick so I used masking tape (instead of particle board which I can't glue to curves) and slimmed it down.

Sanded and shaped.

Peace & Upholstery, Dennis

Dennis · « **Reply #80 on:** March 03, 2023, 11:45:00 AM »

I took my Styrofoam plug for my side covers to be professionally scanned for 3D printing. Precision Guide Machinery and Repair Ltd. has very sophisticated scanning equipment which they use when making very precise equipment.

The scanning is so detailed that all of my blemishes are copied. Michael at Precision Guide did computer magic and smoothed out most.

The Styrofoam plug was solid. Michael made it a shell. This is approximately 3.5mm thick.

The best part is I only had to create one plug (left side). The software easily converted it for the right side.

Precision Guide diesn't have a 3D printer for something this size. I will be working with another fellow for that.

Peace & polynomials, Dennis

Dennis · « **Reply #81 on:** May 18, 2023, 11:04:19 AM »

Any progress is progress.

John-Eric is doing my 3D printing. He has made one test sample.

I am discussing with Dave Litke the type of plastic that is compatible with automotive paint, as I intend to have him paint the trike when the time comes.

Meanwhile I have done some work on my battery basket.