Prince George Vintage Motorcycle Club
Technical Section => Complete Rebuilds => Topic started by: Hortons Heroes on November 22, 2012, 03:13:06 PM
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I'll make this first post quick just to show some of the inspiration and a little of the work already done. I have three of these cm 400's so I decided to turn one of them into a cafe.
The closest one is the one I am working on.
(http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/402029_10151982828855567_470758087_n.jpg)
It won't be an extreme cafe build as I lend out my bikes to beginners often and I need them to be rideable in all weather so I won't be removing both fenders.
Here is my main inspiration EDIT Here are some other bikes I am stealing ideas from as well.
http://www.caferacer.net/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8617
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i7BKNGVzoXk/TnMBE4BbdmI/AAAAAAAAAM8/WmbhXNbrIek/s1600/honda_cm400t_cafe-racer_street-fighter.jpg)
(http://caferacers.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/honda_cm400a_cr_01.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x2jMhsgkTBw/Tv2-xgxaGpI/AAAAAAAABdA/EuX6jUIUATs/s1600/15-1978-Honda-CB400T-Cafe_Screen.jpg)
I love the look of cones and no airbox but I am not sold on the extra work yet...yet.
Here is what I have after two bike nights in the last week.
Shortened the front signals and then used the cut off posts to fill where the tach cable goes.
removed the grab bar and luggage rack
flipped the shift lever so that I will use the passenger pegs and then remove the main pegs
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/16208_10152262563660567_1846897577_n.jpg)
Flipped the fork ears to lower the head light and had to cut off some of the extra flanging on them so they would fit upside down.
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/69459_10152262564055567_363632821_n.jpg)
Took the cut off from the front signal post and it fit almost perfectly where the tach cable was. Just welded the tube shut and bolted it in. Weird what fit.
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/374515_10152262565180567_1895160504_n.jpg)
You can see the lowered headlight in this shot as well as the flat bars. I am really tempted to put on clubmans but would love to see what it looks like first.
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/406910_10152262564345567_863527675_n.jpg)
Cut down the front fender and used the cut off pieces to reshape the shorter fender. Will be cutting down the rear fender and removing the rear light assembly. I have a sweet old light from R&R salvage I rebuilt that will mount just behind the seat and the turn signals are being relplaced with smaller bullet style that go in the holes where the luggage rack was.
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/156749_10152262564670567_1704230438_n.jpg)
TO DO LIST IS
buy flat bars
clutch cable replace
new tail light
new rear signals
take off grab bar
take off luggage rack
shorten front signals
band back tank to fit
bar end mirrors
turn over headlight
cut down front fenders
small led dummy lights where?
lower speedo
lower ignition
lower choke
take of tach and plug hole
fix rear nut
take off exaust and H box
put on straight pipes
crash bar off
and the list goes on,.
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The little $65 speedometers have a great row of single led warning lights built into the bottom - very sanitary considering the small amount of real estate the 2 1/4" (?) guage takes. The 2 bikes I really wanted to use these on both managed to reject the attempt - the first because it had no mechanical tach drive, and in that case I wanted a matched pair speedo/tach, and the other because it had 6v electrics. The other problem these might commonly bring is one of clearance for the drive cable, which is a straight-out drive and will foul a lot of headlights, especially as a single/centered unit. As I have been unable to use them yet, I probably am becoming more fixated on the idea - since your bike has 12v and a tacho drive, it seems a likely candidate for these commonly used (by everybody but me :( ) guages. Failing that, it is often nice to keep the stock cluster IF it fits the general appearance you ultimately are aiming for, and moving them down will at least change their appearance from most perspectives... the instruments on your 400's are at least traditional round guages, and not entombed in a plastic housing; that's a good start. And it's hard to beat the price and compatibility... The bike you cite as inspirational is using a digital speedo with a row of led warning lights, which is a bit streetfighter-modern to my tastes, but it is certainly a nice compact unit.
[attachment deleted by admin due to full attachment storage]
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I was going to lose the dummy light panel and rewire the lights individually into the back of top of the head light bucket with these (my friends idea not mine) or somewhere else with these.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=12v+led+lights&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=Threaded+12v+led+lights&_sacat=0
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Metal-Case-Threaded-Green-LED-Lamp-Signal-Indicator-Pilot-Light-DC-12V-/00/s/NDAwWDQwMA==/$(KGrHqV,!lUFBfluLJF7BQjhbE6bjw~~60_12.JPG)
I like the look of the speedometer and if I center it and drop it down it would look good enough for me. I am also really cheap so if I have a working speedometer then I won't go looking to buy something that may or may not work as well as the one I have.
There are some parts of that bike I really like...and others that I don't I am pulling from a gallery of pictures for what I do next on it.
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Do you have a link to those little units? I have 2 more bikes and that might fit my budget later on, I am interested to read more on them.
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They are available through M.C. distributing (slow to come but cheap) or Motovan (fast IF their in stock). Have one on Allwynn's chopper and it was accurate till the cable fell off and lost the inner. CHEERS.
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Princess Auto has LED lights sort of like the ones above - just not as nicely housed. On my Sporty, which has only the one idiot light, I housed their LED light in a stainless tube, and it's fine. Not as nicely bezelled as the one in your post, though, which is a cut way above. The instruments, as Fast1 alludes, are available from many sources - I like this one http://www.xs650direct.com/ as they are in Canada (but they do want to get paid in US dollars), but everybody's catalogues seem to show these.
Putting the nicely trimmed LED's in your headlight housing would be better still; as long as you will be able to see over or between your instruments to the headlight shell. Remember there isn't much room for tubes or wires to hang down when the headlight reflector is actually installed; they take most of the space, particularly at the front. I put an LED in the pre-existing hole in my 650 Yamaha's headlight, and that is a somewhat more forgiving (spacewise) sealed-beam lamp, and it was still a really tight fit.
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I like the look of the speedometer and if I center it and drop it down it would look good enough for me. I am also really cheap so if I have a working speedometer then I won't go looking to buy something that may or may not work as well as the one I have.
I'm pretty cheap also. In my thread under "Complete Rebuilds" "GS650 Mono Shock Conversion" there is a photo of my cut down instrument cluster. I just took the stock round speedo, and mounted it lowerer and flatter. I ditched all the rest.
Its actually the first bike I have had in years where I even bothered to have any gauges. I figure that if you are speeding, the cops will tell ya.'
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Ba ha ha-Nice Dennis.
I have an over developed sense of guilt when it comes to speeding (nothing crazy I don't often go 10 over the limit). That being said I rod for years on a bike that has a slow speedo so I was speeding everywhere until I took a GPS for a ride with me. My bikes get used for road tests 4-6 times a year so they should have something to track speed still.
Anyone have a set of club man bars lying around I could borrow for an evening?
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Anyone have a set of club man bars lying around I could borrow for an evening?
I'll check. I think I do actually. I took them off the bike I used for flat tracking so I'm pretty sure they are kicking around the garage. Call me at home after work at (250) 562-1590.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I'll give you a shout early next week, I am working through the weekend.
EDIT-i put in some more images of ideas that I like and are going to steal for this build. Interesting to see on the 3rd one that they don't shorten the clutch cable but just run it over the front head light.
what is going on with the almost figure 8 fuel line on the top pic?
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Hmm; looked for a set of clubman bars at XSdirect and they are only showing the sleazy pinched kind - the price is where it should be at $35, but I agree with everyone else who doesn't like these - they seem less than ideal. I have an MCD catalogue at the shop - I will check and see what they are showing (my catalogue is getting pretty out of date now, and as Fast1 says - slow, but still., we'll see...) for racier handlebars.
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I appreciate you looking around.
$40ish bucks shipped for clip ons
http://www.ebay.com/itm/33mm-Fork-Clip-On-Handle-Bars-1-pair-Silver-color-/261104644467?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccb0cb173&vxp=mtr
$60 shipped for clubmans
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cafe-Racer-Ace-Clubman-Handlebar-bars-7-8-CB500-CB650-CB750-KZ650-KZ550-/380470737412?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5895d2ba04&vxp=mtr
$50 shipped for drag bar...word is all the real cafe guys run these. haha
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DRAG-BARS-7-8-CHROME-HANDLEBARS-7-8-INCH-HANDLE-BAR-CHOPPER-CUSTOM-BOBBER-RAT-/180883854294?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1d8493d6&vxp=mtr
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Well, I looked at the usual Cdn and semi-Cdn places like Vintage CB750, Parts n' More and XSdirect and they all show the sleazy clubman bars - but they all have cheaper $25 -30 drag bars (even that seems a bit high to me - but then again, I'm old and bought these for $15 in the day). The clubmans are a good choice for you, though, because they will use up some of that otherwise useless length you have accumulated :D, and if $60 is what it takes to get that job done, I would not argue, I guess, though a careful check of the arrangements required by the master cylinder, and possibly the clutch cable, would pay dividends before you lay out the cash. The clip-ons are well-priced, and the adjustable ones that interest me are more in the $150-250 range, so the steel ones look like a relative bargain. Clip-ons need even more thought about the master cylinder , hose, and clutch cable routing, though.
Think about fabbing your own if there's not some reason it cannot be done (like the need for a good solid chrome finish).
edit: I just followed your links and the shipping is in on your prices, so that puts them more in line with my expectations - and the clip-ons in your link actually look pretty nice at that price - much nicer than the ones I was picturing.
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Here is a link to Speedmotoco's online catalogue of cafe racer parts. They have tons of other parts available also.
http://www.speedmotoco.com/cafer-racer-parts-s/25.htm
They also have an Ebay store, which I where I first found them.
These guys at Dime City Cyles have lots of stuff for bobbers and cafe racers. I purchased by fiberglass seat bulb from them.
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/
They even have some cool tech videos like this one.
http://www.youtube.com/embed/AT6P7qaUPLw?feature=player_embedded
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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MCD has the pinched clubmans - the same as all those other companies (the other ones are all linked together, but MCD is at least independent of that group) so the bars will have to come from somebody more specialized - I see Omar's has the 'normal' style clubmans.
Terry Miller brought me a copy of Cafe Racer that Dennis Kirk threw in to his order - I see Dime City has brought out urethane seat foams to match their seats now - though they are expensive at $275. They look really good. Is Dime City the same as Roc City? I thought that was where you bought the 650 seat from?
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I have the pinched ones on Zara. The cheap ones are flat with no down curve and I actually prefer them. Less compromising of a riding position. Course I bought them 'cause they were cheap and didn't realize the benefits till after installation. CHEERS.
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Man I am now forwarding my next paychecks to dimecity. They have some really nice pieces.
I think I am back to getting clips ons because I can't beat that $40 shipped price.
Here are some more updates
original tail light and rear fender.
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/76165_10152278586190567_1013035822_n.jpg)
Cut down fender with the turn signals mounted and wired in the holes where the grab bar was.
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/432271_10152278586255567_1703142115_n.jpg)
Everything mounted and wired. The tail light I got from Roy in the hart. No plastic on it, the glass is super thick and it has a nice look after I cleaned off all the rust and rewired it. EDIT-exhaust taken off at this point.
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/600155_10152278586365567_144982880_n.jpg)
I have 2 spare seats so one will be the original and this one has the passenger foam cut out and will have a case built over the rear to hold random stuff. I am not taking out the airbox and moving the battery so there is nothing to really put in there but a backup tool set.
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/306081_10152278586210567_476473246_n.jpg)
I think these are the drag bars using the front pegs. I am still torn if I should move to the passenger pegs as rear controls.
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/75260_10152278586145567_2127342155_n.jpg)
clubmans
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/205487_10152278586075567_2103832960_n.jpg)
exaust is all off now and just trying to figure out what to do next.
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Great to watch the progress on your project, I had a 1981 XS 400 dropped off in my yard in boxes. My plan is to put as little money as possible into it and then ride it like I stole it. Right now I need a lower rear motor mount bolt and a shorty muffler. Want to run a capacitor on it and just use the kicker if that will work. The bars I have are black and have a small bend to them and they look good upside down , just have to see if everything will fit that way. Have some extra front brake stuff if anyone needs any, not sure what they are from and they can go to anyone needing them. Not sure if I will change the controls or not, see how things work first. Need the motor mount bolt first to see if it runs, carbs were done by PO who rides a very nice '83 Aspencade that he does all the work on. Will be watching you progress with interest.
Later, Bob
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How shorty of a muffler?
I may go this route for my exhaust, the rest of the bike is interesting but not really the look I want. I like how it cleans up the rest of the bike from having the exhaust running the length of it. The fact that it's even 2-1 is pretty sweet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTOwK683aYE
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I just watched that video. The exhaust is different, I would at least point it back underneath if I did it. If you didn't notice that guy is not running any air filtration at all. So I am wondering how long it took for him to dust his engine and plug the carbs.
Ben.
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Hmm. Some bikes look better stock than butchered. Those pipes will adios your top end in less than a season. They are longish with bends for a reason. You need at least some back pressure. My guess is it is not jetted for these mods. Be like a stock shovelhead with drag pipes, lotsa noise and NO power. CHEERS.
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Good to know fast1...is there a way to create back pressure with short pipes?
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I thought it sounded a lot like my stihl .056. :)
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Will measure the muffler next time I dig into my parts bin, agree with fast1 regarding drag pipes on shovelheads but who buys a shovel to go fast anyway.
Later, Bob
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To get the required amount of back pressure on those pipes you would have to choke the heck out of them with baffles. Then it would sound awful AND make no power. Eliminate the crossover/ balance chamber and add shorty mufflers. If you leave the stock airbox intact jetting should not be an issue. The pistons on your bike not only go up and down together they fire together. This makes a smooth (for a parallel twin) running engine, however it is never going to have a deep throaty growl. This is why the bike in the video sounds so..well, crappy. CHEERS.
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That bike doesn't need any help being gutless so looks like I will go with the full length exhaust.
Would straight pipes (with baffles in) be good enough? I really appreciate the input.
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In a word, yes. CHEERS.
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Here are some more update photos.
Thought you would find this funny, my friends ninja in the back of my minivan...with one of my kids. It kind of felt like having a lifeboat.
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/487096_10152288070425567_444478712_n.jpg)
Had a sprocket that had side to side play which turns out is REALLY BAD. One of the nuts of the sprocket bolts have come off without me noticing. Another nut was just spinning. You can see where we welded to build back up the slot where those bolts fit in.
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/35896_10152288070410567_1495036088_n.jpg)
Once I fixed that and put it back together there was still wiggle, I found little pieces (flakes) of metal and realized my collar had been worn down and cut in 1/2. I had a spare wheel lying around so I put in the new collar and still a bit of wiggle. Put in the extra spacer from the spare wheel and now rock solid. When the old collar was worn down and ripped off the spacer wore into the sprocket a bit so the extra spaces was needed. You can see the old collar and the worn down collar.
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/526930_10152288070405567_708258649_n.jpg)
I couldn't find a torque spec in my manual or anything online for the rear sprocket bolts, do I just tighten decently firm and say that's good? Should I be thread locking the ends? Clearly I did something wrong last spring when I swapped the sprocket. I may not have lined up the bolts to that groove when I put it all back together in the spring but I am fairly sure I did.
This wiggle problem showed itself in the last week of my riding but still a little un-nerving to realize that the sprocket had that much play. Not a real update on the cafe side of the build but still something on the check list that is done. Hoorayy.
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More updates from tonight
Choke, dummy lights, ignition blah blah blah mounted high. Handlebars still mounted. Waiting for the clip on bars and the new dummy lights to come in to do more work in this area now
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/556684_10152296477800567_434499266_n.jpg)
blurry but you can see the dummy lights hanging over the fork ears, the handle bars off, the choke is mounted in the handle bar hole so it's almost invisible. Starts to give the look it will have once the clips ons are on and the speedo is mounted low.
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/59599_10152296477805567_1264627120_n.jpg)
before shot of the seat pan, did some cutting to even the bottom line and will mount the foam sometime this week. More shots to come.
(http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/549690_10152296478385567_248337019_n.jpg)
My soon to be view. The choke mounted in the handle bar hole and once I bore out the right hole I will mount the ignition in the other hole. Tallest thing on the bike should be those two points to the right and left of the speedo.
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/483538_10152296478355567_1818408197_n.jpg)
Some wiring to clean up and can mount the speedo once I build a bracket . The dummy lights will sit below the speedo as you look down on it. Bore out ignition hole then just waiting for the clip ons and dummy lights to arrive. Loving the look so far.
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Ford used a cable drive electronic speedo system in the mid 90's. a small electronic gizmo on the trans that gave a pulse. I wonder if a person could utilize that type of unit to work with electronic tach.(same principle, mech rotation to guage)?
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If my speedo dies I will probably check it out.
I have a question on reupholstering my seat. Is it better to just take seat pan in with no foam or should I buy and shape the foam before taking it to a shop? Also I heard rumors that the club has someone they use often for seat work, any info?
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Yeah, the upholstery guy is Mike Hyland - I had a card with his number , but it's old. You're young - your probably a whiz with a mobile phone. I would guess you could talk to him about the foam, but if your ideas and expectations are incredibly specific, you should probably at least take a stab at shaping a foam base that meets your criterion. Nobody better qualified than you to know what is in your head. Nice pocket for the speedo on the top triple there, the mount will be deep if you use the stock bosses but should be solid enough for the single central guage. Nice dark area for the warning lights if you have the room.
Are those stock black turn signals? Or just stock chrome ones painted black? If they are black, I can't believe I missed those last year when I was looking for black signal lights for the LeMans - I ended up using vastly uglier plastic Yamaha units - and those Honda ones look good (to me).
No chance the front fender hits the bottom of the headlight housing at full bump? Not that this seems to be an insurmountable problem - I see people riding around with those tool kits about 1" above their front fender, and somehow they never have the big dent in the top of the fender that I would get in the first half hour with that arrangement...
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Ford used a cable drive electronic speedo system in the mid 90's. a small electronic gizmo on the trans that gave a pulse. I wonder if a person could utilize that type of unit to work with electronic tach.(same principle, mech rotation to guage)?
I have been wishing for a cable-drive electronic- hybrid speedo, meaning the cable goes into the instrument housing as normal, and then drives an adjustable signal-generator, before final display. On the black Guzzi I am (planning on) using one of the bicycle-style speedos, the ones with the rare-earth magnets fitted to the wheel hub, usually at the rotor bolts; but they are kind of ugly, and the only one I had anything to do with prior to this became an enigmatic mystery at the electronic level, and so displayed nothing but useless gibberish. The one I have may not be much of an improvement.
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I believe they are stock, I have another 1980 that has the black ones on it as well.
Even with the light turned over there is piles of room between the fender and the light...unless I start doing fronties...and gain 100 pounds.
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I for sure have 4 of the rear lights in black that are spares. I could just trade you for the chrome ones off of my soon to be cafe if you want. I don't really care if they are black or chrome.
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I think I made a boo boo.
I got my clip ons hooraayy...Turns out I didn't look at the colour enough and they are not silver but kind of a Mr T gold colour. I think I now how to name my bike "Pity the fool"
Going to toss them on Saturday night and get some more pics.
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Latest update.
The triple tree on the left, speedo just hanging there. Decided to lower the whole front end by just pushing the forks father through the triple tree instead of cutting down the fork ears and mounting them low.
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/397130_10152322814270567_563424447_n.jpg)
Triple tree upside down, ignition mounted ( a little hillbilly but super solid) and choke mounted. Boring the hole from what it was for the handle bar mounts to 1"for the ignition took a long freaking time. The choke was a breeze.
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/76695_10152322814285567_1290295813_n.jpg)
Rought draft of the speedo mount and the dummy lights pannel. Got to late so it will be the finishing touches soon. Made from a salvaged truck box thing. The X's are showing what else will be cut off from the mount. Clip ons mounted and they looks great. Pushing the forks up flattened some of the lines on the bike as well. You can see the choke and ignition mounted in the handle bar holes. Some O rings to center to ignition then a bead of silicon to keep the water out.
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281367_10152322814255567_713305632_n.jpg)
The new look with the clip ons mounted...so ...many...cables...to shorten!
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/16156_10152322814410567_1026325969_n.jpg)
I need to shape the foam and then the material needs to arrive but a flat seat is being created.
(http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/3862_10152322814370567_610731647_n.jpg)
When I took the triple tree off Ben warned me that the steering post was ball bearing mounted, I was careful with the top ones but I shifted the bike and didn't realize there were ball bearings on the bottom as well and they scattered across his shop. Luckily I found all 19 and we regreased both which was not a bad idea at all.
Progress continues.
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Ah, for a minute there I thought you were inverting the top triple clamp for some reason - but now I understand, you were illustrating what was going on in the former handlebar mounting pockets. The clip-ons look good - with you on the colour, but still, they look long enough, and I like the mounts... I'm still concerned that, at some point, your desire to have the headlight bucket low is going to converge with the results of having your forks pushed up through the triples..
Here is a bratbike mock-up (not a real bike - a Kawasaki triple tank from that period will not go on a 650 Yamaha frame without being completely gutted - and even then, I doubt it would fit as low as this computer mock-up. Notice the telltale white pixels between the seat and rear of the tank. I didn't notice; I thought this was a real bike, and I was pretty taken with it.) Very nice brakes, though, and the bike looks good.
[attachment deleted by admin due to full attachment storage]
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I will be working with my existing seat pan so my seat will hopefully be flat but it wont be that thin.
That is a sweet look, thanks to you I will now spend my next hour looking at brat bikes. If that was real that tank would get mighty hot.
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One thing off the list tonight, lots of progress but only on one area.
They sent me two of the same colour light in two different styles in the same order...working this out now with the seller on ebay but just so you have a heads as to why the dummy lights may look different.
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/521443_10152331516395567_2040581361_n.jpg)
The old harness for the dummy lights
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/481444_10152331516415567_155280052_n.jpg)
New harness for the dummy lights. Just plugged it in to give it a test. brown wires are signal (forgive my jargon) and the blacks are grounds. All in all simple enough just took a while to get it done.
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281335_10152331516470567_1891282497_n.jpg)
Testing out the new lights. All of them work just dandy. from left to right (for reference the holes on either side of the lights mount to the two bolts about the choke and ignition.)
left turn
neutral
oil
highbeam
right turn
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/182346_10152331516385567_971585100_n.jpg)
Cleaned up the metal and got the primer coat on (going to be black) the bracket that holds it all together. Loom and some minor wire hiding then onto the next thing. Hop?ng to get new seat finished before christmas but I doubt my material will arrive by then.
I have spare front and rear rims for the tires so I may get bored and take all the black paint off and clear coat them.
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was just looking at mounting my mirrors as bar ends and remembered the clip ons are aluminum. That means I can't do the Rusty method and weld a 10mm nut into the end of the bar and then just screw the mirror in, reshape and tada...bar end mirrors.
Stumbled on these adapters and realized they may be worth the money to save me some time. They also make it super easy to mount right side up, upside down or wherever I want on the bar.
(http://image.made-in-china.com/43f34j00dCPTmHkJlBUD/Motorcycle-7-8-Handle-Bar-End-Mirror-Bar-Mount-Holder-Adapter-for-Honda-Suzuki-Yzf.jpg)
I am loving the look and price of these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/universal-7-8-10mm-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Mirror-Mount-holder-adapter-4-colors-/261119415889?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccbee1651&vxp=mtr
and in black
http://www.ebay.com/itm/universal-7-8-10mm-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Mirror-Mount-holder-adapter-black-/251179671140?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7b799e64&vxp=mtr
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When I am welding in slugs for mirrors and weights, I usually drill holes vertically through the bars and weld that way, leaving a flat seat on the end of the slug for the mirror base (or for more weight). Dressing the welds which are now on the grip surfaces is pretty easy. In aluminum, much the same thing could be accomplished by countersinking a couple of fasteners into an aluminum slug - staking it in place - you'd just have to dress the head of the fastener to conform to the bar's surface. The welding doesn't affect the threads in the steel slugs, but you'd have to go a little farther in from the end of the bars for bolting them in, since you need the fasteners to not overlap... anyway, the clamp-on mounts that you have there look sanitary and will work perfectly, I'm sure, and save you the trouble of modifying your new clip-ons. I'm just too cheap for such things.
Nice job with the indicator/warning lights - can't argue with full-functionality.
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That makes more sense and is fairly ingenious.
I had a question on your tanks, they almost have a clear coat on raw metal look. How did you achieve that?
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Yup, pretty much as you say, clear-coat over bare steel. The trickiest part of this is that the clear-coat has a difficult time adhering to polished metal - so you have to sort of find the balance-point between adhesion and the shiny alloy look we like. The other note applies to Japanese tanks from the '70's, anyway - maybe others - but definitely them - the steel has re-eally been stretched in many of these during manufacturing. The result is that the steel is thin, and has had it's 'grain' sort of stretched open. This makes no difference under most circumstances, but if you really try for a super-fine bright shiny finish, you can end up with weird areas of the tank which will annoy you with 'pores' in the steel that you didn't see earlier with the duller finish. And also your rattle-can clear-coat might scratch and chip off very easily.
There are real catalyzed clear-coats out there that might avoid these issues - but I am 25 years out of date on auto paint.
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I have started to remove the paint off of my wheel rims with a wire brush and it gives it a nice even texture without polishing it. They are aluminum and steel which almost gives it a nice two tone look. I am not really going for super polished look with my bike anyway as I like metalic but not sold on chromy looks.
I was going to paint the tank and side covers as I like colour on my bike.
As with all things on this build I don't know anything about upholstery so I was super nervous to start any work but one quote of $220 to redo the seat gave me a new confidence in my abilities. Here is the work so far, you can see the step up shape of the old style seat in the pics above.
Here is the seat pan needing some love. It has the shaped bottom on it.
(http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/549690_10152296478385567_248337019_n.jpg)
I cut the seat so the bottom line is straight across and derustified the thing. The meant I cut off a few of the spikes to grab the fabric and left a sharp edge.
(http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/200127_10152338853720567_1603398482_n.jpg)
Riveted on new spikes and put car door edging that will keep the stretched fabric from rubbing on the metal edge.
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/305425_10152338853805567_1623250082_n.jpg)
I cut off the passenger seat foam all together and what you see is basically just a skirt that covers the drop in the metal so the fabric will have something behind it. The white foam is right on the metal, it's also far to light of a weight and compresses to much but I don't plan to be on the back of my bike much....or at all. I got an electric turkey knife to do the rough shaping then used an angle grinder with a sanding disc on to do the fine work. The front seat I brought back the foam a few inches from the tank as it used to ride up it a bit and tried to flatten it out before putting on the white layer. I like the look and am just waiting for the fabric to arrive so I can stretch it over.
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/68964_10152338853680567_1019560783_n.jpg)
It's just being modeled on another bike in my garage, the cafe is at a friends garage. This shot is part of the way through the cleaning up of the excess white foam.
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/63739_10152338853725567_450887245_n.jpg)
Not sure if my goal of a done seat by Christmas will come true but unless someone has some seat material for cheap looks like I will have to wait.
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Watch out for the super-light foam's tendency to round corners to excess - unless that's the goal - as the cover pulls tight the light foam absorbs the pull and equalizes by showing one long continuous arc to the seams where it touches heavier foam - where you get a visible step. This results in bubble-topped everything. Given the depth of the pan itself I can see why the brat-style seat seemed unlikely; given the topography of the base and the extreme step the stock seat had, even getting to a non-special/custom '70's flat seat will represent a significant change.
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If you need some material to cover your seat then give Mike Hyland a call. He has left over material from other projects in his shop. He wants to sell his upholstery business and might want to get rid of some of his material.
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I called Mike Hyland but he was all out of black. I went to fabric land as you suggested Rusty and they had a 1/2 off sale! I got 2 meters for $26ish bucks. Two way stretch, -45 no crack and weather proof...woot.
I didn't realize it but I have a friend who was a upholster for over a decade, needless to say I got some help. Turns out my spike strips were OK but really they should be facing the same direction as the stock spikes, I should have covered it with teralene to smooth out the transitions between the two foams. He wasn't thrilled to just stretch and fold instead of sewing but I was thrilled that it's done. I think it turned out awesome but I will probably do a version two with the spare foam and pan I have.
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/484123_10152360641875567_1086039654_n.jpg)
I got most of the black paint off my spare front wheel and put it up beside to give an idea of what it will look like. I need to do the rear rim and then clear coat.
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/550980_10152360641955567_1854727946_n.jpg)
The wiring was a mess after dropping the bars that much lower. Spent some time learning to and then making an attempt at shortening and soldering the wiring. Took around 6 inches out (before and after shots), I need to get some bigger loom to rewrap a few of the runs and then connect/shrink tube the wiring for the dummy lights. Decided to criss cross the throttle and clutch cables and am ok with the tidier look. The random brown wires are for the dummy lights.
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/190647_10152360641865567_715640636_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/407839_10152360641860567_993913595_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/165835_10152360641950567_1471254317_n.jpg)
My to do list keeps getting shorter and shorter on this bike! It may be time to take off the massive horn...
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Stripped wheel looks good - and nice work shortening the wires; that looks more sanitary than if I had done it, for sure. Princess Auto used to have electrical harness wrap - exactly like your black electrical tape there, except no adhesive, so no gooey mess after a few weeks in the sun. Mecca might have it as well. Worth it if you don't change to the heat shrink/loom before the season gets underway.
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I will have to take a look, loom seems to be crazy durable so I will probably wrap it then loom over it. Princess Auto is closed today (I believe) so I will get some larger sized loom tomorrow and get busy.
I need to figure something out for side panels as well now. The old ones are really rounded and don't really match the rest of the scheme. We have loads of diamond/checked aluminum that we could cut and bend into flat panels but love to hear what others have done.
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Your bike is looking good. I haven't hacked or chopped for a long time, just into restorations now. I am just wondering what if the gas tank was higher to expose the top of the head of the engine and blend the front of the seat in a little more. I could be wrong i have been there before many times. As you well know it takes many hours parts off and on fit and refit until you are satisfied. With clip on bars you can rest your belly on it just kidding you never know take the weight off your arms and back. keep up the good work. Please don' let the other members know this came from me they will never let me live it down okay. Again keep up the good work and have fun doing it. HAPPY NEW YEARS
BRITISH BULLDOG
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Noted, if anyone asks I'll say you were commenting on my Norton.
I played around with raising the seat and it would take more modification then I would like to do. To get a visible sight line under the tank it would have to go up a lot. Keep the ideas coming though.
Here are the latest updates!
Loom is done, dummy lights heat shrinked, and cables rerun/cleaned up.
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/392978_10152378191565567_74052885_n.jpg)
Shows the fold in the rear of the seat. No sewing which was great for time but my friend wants me to redo another pan and spend the time and have him sew a better fit. I am happy with it.
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/6630_10152378191560567_1983458469_n.jpg)
Seat to tank transition. Shows the folds. Everything was done with a two way stretch fabric.
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/248522_10152378191535567_765336113_n.jpg)
Here is the exhaust with straight pipes on mocked up. Need to tighten them up and see exactly where they fit and if they need a bend put into them. Going to toss in some baffles for back pressure.
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/429164_10152378191475567_770186027_n.jpg)
Before and after, my pipes were super rusty but the wire brush on the angle grinder cleaned them up far better than I thought they would. Once the fit is all good I am going to paint them black.
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/270371_10152378191370567_1284884161_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/320978_10152378191390567_2127590222_n.jpg)
Random question time-I am going to put the pipes from this bike onto my other bikes but the seal looks a little worse for wear. Do I have the right part to replace it in the pick below. I assume it some kind of band that crushes once the band around it is tightened.
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/64004_10152378191375567_776244197_n.jpg)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Honda-CM-400-TA-TB-NC01-1979-1981-Exhaust-Collector-Box-to-Silencer-Seals-/00/s/NzUwWDEwMDA=/$(KGrHqZ,!qME88f7,knyBPS16nLBpg~~60_12.JPG)
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Looks to be the right type of part alright - but be really sure you need to change it. The original ones can really be on there and removing them can put the actual pipe surface at risk, depending on the tools you employ. Madmac's 500 V4 exhaust had junctures - lots of junctures - made this way, and though the gaskets did eventually get replaced, my lastiing impression was, in that case, we probably should have just left the originals on there...
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I had one or two disentagrate on me, I was going to do all of them but with that advive I will happily not.
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I was warned it would take a ton of time...and it did. I made my baffles last night and installed them. The pipes are 1.5 inch and the pipe I bought to go inside was to big so we improvised and Ben had some near 7/8 size. The walls were crazy thick for our purposes but we made it work, a little redneck though.
Made discs for the caps and slotted the pipe as I had no interest in drilling that many holes without a drill press. Capped the slotted pipe then drilled holes in each end to line up with the pipe. I realize now this photo makes it look like I used an exacto knife to cut the slots.
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/397733_10152384253780567_1135012320_n.jpg)
Lucked out and found packing at the Harley dealership. The pipes are so small that it took very little wrapping. The baffles are around 14" long.
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/317987_10152384253355567_2065203576_n.jpg)
Ben doing the final welds. We drilled a hole in the pipe and tacked the engine side end in so no rattling.
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/538556_10152384253710567_463267473_n.jpg)
Not the prettiest weld but we were in a rush to get done. Now I need to take them off, paint them and then cure the paint by running the bike for a while.
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/385219_10152384253675567_1639115997_n.jpg)
We started it up when it was just the pipe with no baffle and it was nice and loud, once we had the baffles in there was more noise coming out of the front of the bike than the back. We didn't do the pipes up really tight off the engine so there was some leaking, the baffles seem to be doing the job well. Once it was started we were able to talk without yelling. Need to run it beside one of my stock bikes to see which is louder now.
I am heading out of town for a few weeks but got the bike where I wanted it to be before the end of Jan. Running condition with lots of cleaning up and painting to do now. Bar end mirrors and try making new side covers are the next two things.
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The engineering triumvirate for mufflers will always involve various combinations and compromises of the elements a) size (weight and volume) b) efficiency (flow) and c) noise. A tiny muffler that is both quiet and flows well is the target everyone (well, almost everyone) would shoot for, but nobody could ever hit. (Look at Harley Davidson's agonizing job to design a suitable muffler for their purposes on the V-Rod) So, compromise is the name of the game, how big, how quiet, how much performance is expected. If your muffler is smaller than a stock one, and about as loud, chances are it will be somewhat restrictive - but there's nothing wrong with that; everybody who attempts this faces the same problems, and will be making concessions in some area.
That said, it looks completely workable to me - good job. I have seen motors that go so far as to be difficult to even start with some exhaust/muffler configurations (the proverbial potato in the exhaust pipe), and your bike wasn't harder to start, so good on you - you have already ventured where few would dare, and though the depth of this field is almost infinite, since the decisions are personal choices, you are best-equipped to judge the relative success of your efforts.
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The engineering triumvirate for mufflers will always involve various combinations and compromises of the elements a) size (weight and volume) b) efficiency (flow) and c) noise. A tiny muffler that is both quiet and flows well is the target everyone (well, almost everyone) would shoot for, but nobody could ever hit. (Look at Harley Davidson's agonizing job to design a suitable muffler for their purposes on the V-Rod) So, compromise is the name of the game, how big, how quiet, how much performance is expected. If your muffler is smaller than a stock one, and about as loud, chances are it will be somewhat restrictive - but there's nothing wrong with that; everybody who attempts this faces the same problems, and will be making concessions in some area.
That said, it looks completely workable to me - good job. I have seen motors that go so far as to be difficult to even start with some exhaust/muffler configurations (the proverbial potato in the exhaust pipe), and your bike wasn't harder to start, so good on you - you have already ventured where few would dare, and though the depth of this field is almost infinite, since the decisions are personal choices, you are best-equipped to judge the relative success of your efforts.
I have experienced the folly of too free a breathing mufflers; they sound great but often result in less performance unless the intake and jetting is matched. Until my Ebay bobber, I never re-jetted and almost always saw a decrease in performance despite sounding way more powerful. I once put pods and a Mac 4 into 1 on a GS1100 which was a rocket in its stock form. After the pods and pipe, it wouldn't even go a 100 mph. Same with my sporty with strait pipes. Until I added baffles is was noisy enough to set off car alarms, but gutless.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I have to wait to find out what performance has been affected, this CM 400 was the most gutless of my 4 bikes to start anyway (a carb tweeking issue) and I have put an a different carb so I may never be able to attribute a change in performance to exhaust or a different carb until I throw the other one back on.
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after being out of town for three weeks I finally for some time on the bike. Got both the rims stripped of paint with a knotted wire brush on an angle grinder. The front was OK to do but the rear was a bummer with lots of hard to reach spots. Either way both done and here they are mounted
Had to replace the bearings and seals on the front wheel which was fairly simple.
The only other thing I got done (time went by fast as I had my little helpers with me) was replacing the seal around the tach gear. 3 of my 4 CM 400's have a leak there and it really is a 5 min job as I found out.
Next on the to do is side covers and paint the exhaust black.
I swapped my carbs with a spare set and my left float needs shimming. Where does one find shims to do such a thing? I can post pictures if it help to have others solve my problems. The float is sitting to low so it never gets a good enough seal to shut off the gas.
forgive the crappy picture quality.
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/529442_10152505343610567_1622258370_n.jpg)
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Float shims... float shims... nope, not something I have ever run into. Usually the operating tab that actually presses on the inlet needle just gets bent in relation to the main float frame to raise or lower the fuel level. Try that, unless your manual outlines a different procedure.
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I feel like float shims sound like a board strecher or a left handed hammer. I will take some pics to try and explain my problem.
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I forgot to take pics of the carb but I was putting shims on the float needle where it rests on the float to make it sit higher and thus seat sooner but it didn't fix the problem. The overflow/breather keeps pouring out gas if the bike sits idle running or the gas is just turned on.
Here are the pipes hung with care.
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/69223_10152528609285567_1195326345_n.jpg)
Here they are painted and back on. Process was not really fun and I am not thrilled with the finished product. I didn't realize the exhaust header spray paint was a powder. I painted it on then left it for an hour, went to mount it on the bike to run the bike and cure the paint and the paint would come off if you brushed it slightly. Branden mentioned that I should have roughed up the pipes more and I think that may have just been the problem but either way after painting them and trying to get them back on there was a lot of touch up. That and I fear it didn't bond that well with the pipe and I am going to end up having to redo it later in the season. Dang it... Only time will tell if it worked I guess.
With the float needle not seating I had to baby sit it and shut off the gas every 5-8 minutes then turn it back on so curing it for an hour was a real chore. It was great to have Brandan there so I had someone to talk to.
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/535831_10152528609270567_627005130_n.jpg)
My list of jobs is now in the single digits! I am hoping to have it done by March 1. I need to
make some side panels
reshape my mirror bars so they work with my bar end mounts
mount license plate
mount a new tank or fix the dents in the one I have (considering doing knee dishing)
shorten cables if I get bored
mount new smaller horn
touch up frame paint and clean the thing
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Spent more of the night trying to swap carbs and parts then a little doing the bar end mirrors. Big thanks to Brandan for helping me out
I got the look I was looking for, I wasn`t really digging the bar end mirrors that go straight out from the ends. I am loving the forward and up mount...the price was right as well.
Before and after to show the amount we cut out and my terrible welds.
(http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/73440_10152540175280567_420186232_n.jpg)
Here they are mounted, lots of clearance for the hands. The level clearance is fairly tight.
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/58820_10152540175265567_586229014_n.jpg)
Mirrors mounted and the welds cleaned up a bit. Brandan is much more of a perfectionist than me. I was just happy to fuse metals together but he wanted me to clean it up a bit.
(http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/551325_10152540175255567_2030538568_n.jpg)
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Spent a fair bit of time working last night and I am proud to say.
IT'S DONE!
There will always be little paint touch ups and tweeking to make it more rideable but the goals I set out to make it rideable with a cafe look are done.
The side covers were the last major thing to do. Had I just taken out the airbox I wouldn't have had to make a different set. That being said I did have a set of side covers for it but they are very curved and swoopy and I wanted a boxier look. I made a cardboard template then cut it out in checkered aluminum.
(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/66637_10152561063525567_974016013_n.jpg)
When I cut them out I put the future 90 degreed curve on an existing 45 degree curve on the aluminum. This made getting a nicer sharper edge way easier. I put two folds in and riveted them together.
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/17672_10152561063065567_1002782289_n.jpg)
Here they are mounted. Right now it's just tie wire holding them on but I may end up welding a nut or two on the frame and running some bolts through. I like the tool free ease of tie wire for getting them off.
(http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/548852_10152561063585567_1262728672_n.jpg)
I am not really digging the look yet but the black paint dulls after a bit of time and that should help draw my eye away from them. They are larger than the old ones and super boxy which was the look I was shooting for but I got more box that I was expecting. The left side cover needs a rubber/plastic flat on it on the front to keep the water from getting into the fuses etc. The other side seems to fit and cover everything well. I was thinking to break up the look a bit I could paint a racing number on the side or something else to break up that big flat area. Open to suggestions.
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/179249_10152561063580567_972870465_n.jpg)
I bled the brakes, strapped some loose cables to the body, removed the horn, put passenger pegs on, put in cotter pins, mounted the license plate and cleaned up a few spots.
I was thinking about mounting the license plate like this
(http://www.1tail.com/productImages_thumbBIG/145945)
but I was unsure about the legality (I worry to much for a future cafe rider) I know you are supposed to have a light on it which would not be hard to do but does anyone know if there are any legal issues with having it low and sideways?
I need to find a little horn and mount my tool kit somewhere but man it feels good to be done. Now to get my other 3 CM 400's running well.
I will get back up there and take some non ipod quality pictures to show it off a bit better.
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I just realized that the first work I did to it was Nov 22 and I finished it Feb 22.
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Yes, it has to be the other way, yes it must be lit. No height restrictions. CHEERS and congrats on finishing......you know once you start they are never really done.
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Lookin' good!
First thing I did to my 400 was switch to cafe-style bars and change the muffler to a straight line pipe with a rear bevel and no baffles ::) Very tidy, if loud...
Tried fitting a little viper fairing, but couldn't get it to sit 'straight' with all sorts of fiddling, and so I'm saving it for the Enfield.
I like the look you're going for, much smarter than the 'commuter' styling the stock CM 400 was designed with.
Onward!
Peg
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Finished? Bikes are never finished.
The Jeremy helped me move my yellow XS650 from my office to my garage on Saturday. I built that bike more than 10 years ago. It has been frequently modified, and is about to get butchered for parts for my XS650 flattracker. They're all works in progress (unless you are in the purist resto camp).
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I only mean that I got list of things that I wanted done completed. I know that I will change it more as I ride it more. I am really tempted to take out the airbox and rejet the carbs but I want to put on 1000km before I start doing anything else major.
I still have to get that CM400 from willow creek all fixed up before my brother inlaw gets the paper work done so I am switching projects now for sure.
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A special thanks to Ted for troubleshooting and repairing my daughter's jeep.
British Bulldog and Evon
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I'm glad it was a successful repair, Bulldog, and thanks for the public acknowledgement.
Kind regards to your daughter.
Ted
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How is it possible I am the first one to post this pic on here. You guys should be proud to see that a vintage bike built exclusively on this forum was showcased in Tuesdays Prince George Citizen! I had been riding to work and back when the road were dry and someone snapped a photo while it was parked! I am so thrilled to have my first project circulated around the city. I am sure after my next project I will wish noone had ever seen this bike hahaha.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/313417_10152633223465567_675015044_n.jpg)
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Congrats. I missed it. Too bad they didn't interview you. You could have put in a plug for the club.
Peace & Fame, Dennis
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I have been plugging the club on my facebook and I posted on the Citizen facebook wall with a link to this thread. Hopefully that brings in some view. Something is bringing people here this thread has over 1500 views and is only 3 1/2 months old.
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Yes I saw the picture in the paper and thought it was yours. I meant to mention it but just got too busy I guess. You should receive an award for being the first out on the streets this year.
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As an award I everyone could pay into my life insurance to cover when I hit some gravel.
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My brand new straight pipes looks 30 years old already. The headed paint I used didn't stick as I didn't have an oven to cure it and clearly just running it wasn't enough. After putting a couple hundred KM on it already my pipes are uber rusty. Riding when there was salt on the roads is for sure part of the cause as well but I am hoping to pull the pipes off and try a flat black hi temp BBQ paint soon and should see better results.
Should I just skip the hi temp paint step and get them powder coated?
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Talked to a powder coating company and they said it wasn't worth powder coating as the high heat would take it off. She said that even their high temp stuff would come off.
Took of the exhaust and wire wheeled everything again and used three coats of a high temp flat black paint by krylon. Been on for a few days and have been riding on gravel with no dings or scuffs yet. The header paint was already rubbing off after one ride where my boot would touch and this stuff is on way better. Guess I learned my lesson and will just go with high temp and never header paint again.
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I find barbecue paint works best. If your willing to spend the money ceramic coat is the way to go but pricey. There is one shop down south that will chrome used pipes but turnaround is slow. Something for winter. CHEERS.
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I am to cheap to ever chrome...sad...
With these pipes I have really noticed that the bike bogs down in power at certain ranges. That being said the bike really never had that much power anyway. It has the same push at higher RPMs.
In other news my front tire went flat while riding home from date night, with that I met the king of british bikes as well. Thanks for checking to make sure we were alright. Got home after our van came to rescue us with it's compressor. Fairly sure I threw a wheel weight when I rode it flat for a bit. The ride home was REALLY bumpy. Got my spare wheel put on and will be riding tomorrow.
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I preached at Fort George Baptist this past Sunday and I made sure to park my bike so that all would know I had arrived....in style....
Little weird to have my name on a sign on 15th for a week.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/947264_10152799381685567_1395230592_n.jpg)
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I preached at Fort George Baptist this past Sunday and I made sure to park my bike so that all would know I had arrived....in style....
Little weird to have my name on a sign on 15th for a week.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/947264_10152799381685567_1395230592_n.jpg)
I guess this means you won't be dropping by for beer and reefers and talking about using motorcycles as chic magnets.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Beer yes, if you can find one that tastes all right
Reefer I'll pass on
my wife seems to have a 6th sense about me even thinking of other women hahaha. I am far to happy with the one I got to be trying to pick up another anyway. Plus...my bike isn't really a chick magnet.
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First let me say I am a happily married man who does NOT fool around. Had it done to me and don't like it. Wouldn't do it to someone else. Motorcycles and women have a strange relationship. Funny when out in the mini-van the only girls that smile at me want me to pay them. My Suzuki gets looks but no "can you take me for a ride" True story. A couple of days before the gremlin entered the chopper I scooted to the First Litre for a couple singles. Rounding the corner from upland to Strathcona I saw two native girls, one pretty and one busty. The pretty one immediately asked for a ride and lifted her shirt and showed me her ta-tas. They followed me to the beer store, bummed a smoke and then the pretty one said I 'm so horny, I hate being so horny-can you take for a ride to my house?" I just smiled and said my headlight wasn't working and didn't have an extra helmet. Choppers and Harleys get all the chicks. Yes they do get off on the vibration of certain twins-but not the CM 400 I'm afraid. CHEERS.
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You should submit that story...made me laugh
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That story just made my day sitting in camp chopper (helicopter not bike) grounded and laughin my ass off.
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I am not sure how many of you know Jamie who rides with my nephews. His hardtailed CM400 is definitely a chic magnet (or maybe its just Jamie; slim, tall, blond with an impish smile).
The song "Hold my beer while I kiss your girlfriend" came to mind the other night. I rode the Chang to Save On Foods for some groceries. While I was scoping an open parking spot, I saw a young woman and her boyfriend also looking for a spot. She was waving and pointing at the spot next to mine. Once parked she jumped out and started asking questions about riding in the sidecar and how fun it would be. The boyfriend feigned interest with the usual "what year is it?" I mentioned how my wife and daughter love going for rides, and generally feeding her enthusiasm. Pretty soon the boyfriend was bored and paying no attention to me, the Chang or his girlfriend. We kept chatting and she told me how she wished her boyfriend would get a motorcycle. He was clueless and just stood there looking at his ipad (or whatever it was) while his girlfriend and I mercilessly flirted with each other.
All motorcycles are chic magnets, even the Chang.
Keep the peace & and be of good behavior, Dennis
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Cafe not having a great season start. My kick stand fell off yesterday when I went to park (maybe a subtle message that I should just keep riding).
then this morning at work someone back into it and knocked it over. Broke my mirror mount and bent my clip on bars. Good news is that he gave me cash for new parts and I get to get rid of those ugly gold bars and get some nice black ones.
You can see in the pic a little crease where the bar bent
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My poor Suzi' was backed into 3 times, each paying to buy me new (upgraded) parts. Bright side to everything if ya' look hard enuff. CHEERS.
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Where is this happening to you guys? I'll make a mental note not to park there... though if it's a bar or a church respectively, I guess I'll be ok.
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There was a church group that was meeting at the Thristy Moose you make sure you never park near there on a sunday morning! Ha hahahaa
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I was going to start a thread in the electrical section but figured I may as well keep this going.
I have had a few problems that I can't figure out,
Firstly know this
I swapped the stock headlight for a dual headlights that a friend gave me. This means I had to remount my signals as well. Went from a plastic body headlight bucket to metal body dual headlight. Since then I have been having some of these issues.
-firstly idiot lights (two turn signals and high beam-all grounded with a green wire) have a low constant glow to them. Sometimes brighter and sometimes dimmer. The other two (neurtal and oil) don't have this glow but they are grounded differently (to a black wire). Being a fool with electrical I am thinking I have a grounding issue somewhere that is putting a low live current into my ground...is this even a thing?
-I have been blowing fuses for my headlights but not regularly enough to blame the new dual headlights. Sometimes right after it starts.
-whilst driving at night I realized my lights seemed dim, when I pulled in the clutch to shift the lights brightened up.
-tonight while digging around and trying to fix the dim glow on idiot lights I noticed that the glow would go away when I wiggled the clutch cable...then noticed I was getting some noticable sparks on the inside of the cable housing when the cable would move around
-when the low glow gets brighter the front signal lights get really dim.
Any words of wisdom?
I was thinking that the front signals might not be getting a good enough ground (they have 2 wires and grounded off the post that holds that light previously) so I added a line from the post of the signal to a ground wire and the dim is lower, I need to test ride to work tomorrow and see if I keep blowing my headlight or if the glow goes away.
I figured this one out but I took me a bit.
Took off my brake master and resevior unit and when I put them back on my braided brake line was getting hot....really hot. I was losing my mind blowing fuses and only turning the bike on momentarily to try and find the problem and not let the line heat up. Turns out when I put the unit back on I pinched the wiring for the rear brake light controls and made a live touch the bolt...thus heating up my brake line...so weird.
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Wayne's chic story reminds me of walking from the restaurant to my hotel in Bali while on a layover and a gal came putting up to me on her scooter and said "Mister, Oh Mister, can you help me please?"
Being the gentleman, I of course answered "what do you need help with young lady"
To which she replied "I'm so horny and I need you to fix it"
I laughed so hard I almost fell off the sidewalk onto the street. Best pickup line I've heard in a long time.
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Well I am now on a full week with working headlights and my other electrical gremlins gone. Here is what I figure happened.
The ground for the headlight was going to what I thought was a the ground for the headlight but it was actually the ground for the clutch lever switch. This meant that the headlight was trying to ground off of the clutch cable itself. Once I figured this out and regrounded it to the proper spot I started to burn through fuses even fast which confused me more.
What I figure was happening was that the bike wasn't getting a great ground and my headlights weren't drawing much and running dim. When the ground was good they were brightening up then blowing the fuse. So it was actually when the lights had ground that they blew. I swapped the 7amp fuse for a 9 and it's hotter on the fuse but the wiring all still seems cool. After a week of having nice bright headlights I think my gremlins are all worked out. No burned our fuses and no idiot lights dimly running for no reason.
Woot!
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While trying to address a clicking in the engine I think I may have done things in the wrong order. I did the valve clearances and did get more power but the click was still there. I then did the cam chain adjustment. (a little unnerving on a cm400 where you just loosen it off while it is idling and then tighten it back up....it makes a lot of noise in the engine before you get it tight.) and it got rid of more of the noise. The next thing to try was replacing the gasket on the exhaust at the engine block. I have been having backfire issues on the left exhaust (where the noise is coming from).
Should I go back and redo the valves now that I have done the cam chain adjustment after them?
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Retensioning the cam chain "should" have no effect on the valve clearances.
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Retensioning the cam chain "should" have no effect on the valve clearances.
ibid The proper cam chain tension and making sure you rotate the crank the correct direction to top dead centre, will ensure the valves are at their most open when adjusting them. The cam chain tensioner is on the "slack" side when the crank is turned in the correct direction, so it should not make a difference. If you went past top dead centre and were trying to go backwards, then it would be a factor but nobody does that right? Never. Not even me. If you go past top dead centre, just keep going until you get there again.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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excellent, thanks guys.
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I have not insured the cafe this year. When I parked it there was a considerable oil leak. I had really hoped to do this during the winter but a lot of unexpected things came up. Decided to start tonight...
started at 6:30 and by 7:30 had everything off and the engine out.
(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11390034_10155552604320567_1214005708008449376_n.jpg?oh=3717785136dbaee90e7c7e3e4084c9d0&oe=55EC8EEA)
By the time I parked the bike after last year the oil leak and the fact I ride 2-3km on dirt meant there was some seriously caked on sand...that invited all it's friends to the party. So much sand. Pressure washer and some soap cleaned it up a bit but still not really pretty.
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Got the engine all apart and there is really only one seal to clean off before I can start putting things back together. I might add that this is a milestone event for me. I have never had the guts to take out and take down an engine without someone holding my hand. I had some help but it felt great not to be freaking out at every step.
Here is what oil and filter changes look like at every 2000...clean...
well at least it looks clean to me. Everything in there looked pretty shiny, I was impressed.
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I need to clean the carb, swap the rings then put a seal kit into it
I should repaint the exhaust while it's off
welding some proper mounts onto the frame for side panel mounting may be a good idea as well
I'll see if I can get this all done before the next 2-3 weeks passes and I end up burried in work at camp.
Now the bad news.
turns out the oil leak was coming from the shifter shaft. Dang it...I could have replaced that by just removing the exhaust....dang it
either way there was a leak coming from the top end which I can clean up now.
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Finally (after years) got around to mounting the side panels with something more permanent then just tie wire. Bought 5/16 ready rod and used 2 of the existing holes from the old mounting system. Flattened the ends a bit and drilled a hole for a retainer pin. Surprised how centered the the holes are.
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Here is the rod mounted in the old holes
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Mounted. I don't love the look of the wing nuts. The right pannel has higher mounting points so it's quite a bit more centered. The left side the bolts are quite low. THere is a bit of play in the top but I will see if it needs a third.
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And in another great moment of mediocre bike building I finally found a blue light that matches the size of the others (red, green and orange from Princess Auto and blue from Chieftan). I am really turned off from buying random little bits like this from ebay ever again. Anything like signals, idiot lights and tail lights have all broken and had to be replaced with something more common and easy to find. The different headlights I have bought have all worked well and had more replaceable parts.
(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11667456_10155662655035567_7525858363046595083_n.jpg?oh=8f7005f79ca3c69c87f63db32f7ed629&oe=563419DC)